Gilgit, Pakistan – Sirbaz Khan has made history by becoming the first and only Pakistani climber to summit Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak at 8,849 meters, without the use of supplementary oxygen. This remarkable feat brings his total of eight-thousanders scaled to eleven, further solidifying his position as one of Pakistan’s most accomplished mountaineers.
Expedition officials reported that Sirbaz Khan reached Everest’s summit at 12:30 PM (Pakistan time) on Tuesday. He was part of the Imagine Nepal 2024 Everest Expedition, which included 14 international climbers and 18 Sherpas. Following their successful summit, the team began their descent.
Prior to his ascent, Sirbaz shared a reflective post on his official Facebook page: “Spring of 2024 means that my incredible journey with Serena Hotels has reached the milestone of five years. In these five wonderful years, I got the opportunity to raise Serena’s flag on some of the highest peaks in the world.” He expressed gratitude for Serena Hotels’ unwavering support and looked forward to continued collaboration in promoting adventure diplomacy, tourism, and hospitality.
Sirbaz Khan, 34, hails from Aliabad, Hunza in the Gilgit-Baltistan region. His mountaineering career began in 2016, and since then, he has achieved numerous significant milestones. In 2019, he became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak at 8,516 meters, without supplementary oxygen. His other notable climbs include Nanga Parbat (8,125 meters) in 2017, K-2 (8,611 meters) in 2018, Broad Peak (8,163 meters) in 2019, Gasherbrum-I (8,080 meters) in 2022, and several more.
Sirbaz Khan’s latest achievement has garnered widespread acclaim from mountaineers, civil society members, social media activists, and politicians alike. The Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Karrar Haidri, also extended his congratulations.
Throughout his career, Sirbaz has often been accompanied by the late Mohammad Ali Sadpara, a revered figure in Pakistani mountaineering. Sirbaz’s ultimate goal is to become the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks, a dream that seems increasingly within reach with each successful expedition.
Sirbaz Khan’s dedication and achievements continue to inspire many within Pakistan and around the world, showcasing the heights of human endurance and the spirit of adventure.